Wed 23 May 2018, Day 171
Mushroom Farm, Livingstonia
Total from Amsterdam 11772
One year ago today Peter and I left Amsterdam on our brand spanking new Koga Randonneur bicycles that we bought in Amsterdam. I recall how nervous I was embarking on this crazy (im)possible adventure with Peter … and here we are in Malawi having the adventure of a lifetime. Rain woke us up at 3 am. Peter dashed out the tent leaving it unzipped and within seconds the tent was swarming with mozzies. Armed with headlamps, Peter using his towel and me my long pants rolled up we executed the little buggers one by one. This took roughly half an hour. Now wide awake we both read a bit before zzz’ing a bit more. I had uncooked Jungle Oats for the second day in a row and enjoyed it with cold milk, banana and sugar. Me eating oats is unheard of as all my life I’ve hated cooked oats, gagging even from the smell while cooking. We are also making the most of the toaster at Hakuna Matata. Another unusual thing is me drinking tea. I now love black or rooibos tea with a quarter teaspoon of mixed spices ……. it is really good. We decided on the spur of the moment at 09h30 to walk up to Livingstonia, only leaving at 10h35. It’s 13.7 km from our camp to Lukwe camp, passing Mushroom Farm on the way … not a difficult walk, a bit rocky and uneven most of the way but it had …….. zigzag bends which made the going up a bit easier. First stop was to check out ‘Mushroom Farm’ and decided to have lunch here … from the huge menu we chose Mushroom Medley which was three home made dips with tortilla chips $5 and a basket of potato wedges $3.
The food was delicious and portions huge. Mushroom Farm have nice views of the Lake, music around the lounge/dining areas and attracts young people whereas Lukwe has a stunnimg view of the valley and one can hear the waterfall. Lukwe was beyond our budget for accomm as well as for dinner and we would have been their only guests. Returned to MFarm but the dormitory was full so the owner, Cameron, a young guy, 27 was called and he kindly gave us a tented room, double bed, candles on bedside tables and a view to die for … free of charge. There is no electricity here. He’s American, parents are swallows who spend six months in Barrydale so we’re hoping he’ll pay us a visit in Knysna so that we can ‘play it forward’. Had a nice hot shower and Peter and I have just munched our way through the packet of cashew nuts that Tessa and John gave us in Dar es Salaam. We’ve been lugging these witj us for over 1000 km waiting for a special moment to have them and the setting, views, hospitality and Cameron at Mushroom Farm has been worth the wait. Thanks T+J. The vegetarian dinner was delicious … we had a real fresh green salad, green beans, mash potatoes and ‘no meat, meat balls’ served with loads of sauce. The price for our supper was reduced from $7 to $6. Thanks Cameron. Sat at a table with Sam and Georgia from the UK. She’d just completed her medical degree (her second degree) and spent, a compulsory, three months at hospitals or clinics in Malawi with Sam coming out the last two weeks to travel a bit with her in Malawi. There isn’t a mosquito in sight. It’s rather chilly up here and the wind is blowing. I’ve got 10% of my book to read so ciao for now. Night all xx