Staying at Grace Guest House, Mafeteng
Distance 105 + 13498 = 13603
Time 7 h 52 m
Total from Amsterdam 19003
Location S29.826725, E27.256876
A temporary goodbye to South Africa while we cycle in lovely Lesotho, our 20th and final country on this adventure we are doing.
Two mongrel jack russells barked non stop for about an hour into the wee hours of the morning. We thought if we stay quiet they’ll stop, no such luck. We had to do a ‘wild’ morning ablutions and burnt the loo paper, so no evidence was left.
Said goodbye to Annette and Eduard Foord, the kitten, now named Koekoe and the pug but scowled at the other two mongrels. On the road by 06h51. Forgot to mention that Annette prepares cooked carrots by adding a dash of Oros cooldrink when boiling them, giving the carrots a great flavour. Being a nursing sister she also hears of unusual treatments for ailments, one being a remedy for cycle sores … grate a teaspoon of industrial Sunlight soap and mix in a bit of sugar. Put onto the boil before going to bed and cover with a plaster.
By morning the paste will have done its work having drawn out all the ‘gunk’ hovering under the skin. We arrived at the Maseru border and breezed through. Both sides looked a bit chaotic, the SA side working out of a ‘container’ but it appears renovations are under way. Found a pharmacy, the Total Care Pharmacy and Ntee Tsiu assisted us with cycle pimple tablets to see us through until we can get the prescription from our Knysna GP made up in Lady Grey.
Left our bikes inside the pharmacy and found Shoprite for a few basics. On our return we got chatting to Mothibe Tlaitlai outside the pharmacy and he contacted his sister, Maposela Motloung who lives in Mafeteng and owns Grace Guest House there. Taking into account that we hadn’t eaten our regular food the night before, we stopped often to eat … cheese and tomato sandwiches, buy and eat guavas, peaches and oranges and share a Bioplus sachet of muti, hope I sleep tonight.
The last 20 km was tough going with both of us having run out of steam. We saw loads of second hand Honda Fit cars, run as taxis. Also feel like we’re back in Egypt as 90% of vehicles have stinky exhaust emissions … old cars, no servicing done or fuel being of poor quality. The little taxi cars also constantly hoot to encourage people who walk, to rather take a taxi. Also noticed most children go to school and wear hats as protection from the sun. Lesotho reminds us of countries up north in Africa as there are tiny shops every 10 km or so which is great for cyclists being able to buy food along the way. Have also seen many aid charity vehicles, World Vision, USAid and EUAid.
Lesotho is a poor country being run by a King who has many wives and children. Mmmm, say no more. We arrived in Mafeteng exhausted, spotted a fish and chips takeaway and had supper there. Maposela found us here and we followed her to the GH, parked our bikes, and she then took us to the bottle store (they close 8 pm) where Peter bought Maluti, Lesotho brewed beer to try out and says it’s very nice. With bikes parked in the room next door, we showered away the day’s ride and it won’t be long before it’s time to get some shut eye.
Night all xx
– Pity the old Volksie is now relegated to the garden
– Love Lesotho… people, smooth tar, reasonable width of shoulder, street food sellers and so much more
– Maseru information centre
– Fish and chips for supper in Mafeteng