Camping at Tuskers, Ivory Lodge
Distance 40 + 9342 = 9382
Total from Amsterdam 14782
Woke up feeling much better having vented my frustrations yesterday, today’s ride is only 40 km. I found five tablets for toothache, enough for a day and a half so took one this morning. Bought more groceries, ate more slap chips and met friends of Scruff and Jan a few km from the turnoff to Tuskers campsite which is part of Ivory Lodge. Camping at Tuskers is $15 pp. Greg, the tour guide from Drifters Adventours who do overland trips pulled in at the campsite with 16 happy campers. A nice bunch of people, mostly from Europe.
Peter’s bike computer has gone on the blink, flashing km/h. We’ve tried resetting it but haven’t had any joy. It was very windy at the campsite which kept the pesky mopani flies away but as the wind died down just before sunset the little blighters were all over our faces. Thank heavens they disappear after sunset. Drifters are here every Friday and this group are all very nice people, the guide a single white guy from Johannesburg. He runs the whole tour single handedly. Greg has invited us to join them for a supper of spaghetti bolognese but they returned from a game drive quite late so we cooked our last two packets of two minute noodles, thanks Jan.
We have a group of Zimbabweans who arrived last then threw their toys out the cot when they saw the Drifters’ truck parked at the campsite. They weren’t happy with the huge available space to camp and have crowded our and the Drifters’ tents in with their six tents and three vehicles, forming a lager. Mmm, me thinks we’ll leave tomorrow.
We have done all the necessary washing of cycling gear so can leave if tonight is going to be raucous and this is the impression we’ve both had … an elderly gentleman asked when we were planning on leaving … doesn’t make us feel very welcome. Sean, the lady manageress of Ivory Lodge said the Zim people were under the impression they’d have the whole campsite to themselves. This is the first negative vibe we’ve had and am sure it’s a one off. Every Zimbabwean we’ve come in contact with has been amazing and happy to share their country with strangers.
We went to the hide at around 8 pm and saw elephants walking towards the lodge so went to Ivory Lodge’s hide and there were ten elephants close by. The staff put out salt and this attracts the ellies. At one point we had an ellie no more than three metres from the hide. A lovely sight. 22h15 and I think we’re in for a loong night !! There’s always one person who assumes everyone else wants to hear what he has to say. Enough for today xx
– Painted Dog has replaced the name of Wild Dog. The new name sounds like its from a children’s story book
– All this gorgeous pottery just waiting for buyers
– The first Bayobab we’ve seen in ages … and a gorgeous one too
– Elephants at the Lodge’s hide